Water features

Rain garden design tool

A rain garden is a shallow planted basin that catches the water pouring off your roof and driveway and soaks it into the ground within a day, instead of letting it run to the storm drain or your basement. It is not a pond: it is dry most of the time, planted with deep-rooted natives that drink hard when it fills. Painted Acre paints your yard photo into a watercolor, lets you draw the basin where the water already goes, and shows the planting grown in over twenty years.

Design this on a sample yard — free

No account needed. The studio opens with this scenario ready to go.

Rain garden design tool, painted in watercolor
Rain garden design tool, in the Painted Acre watercolor style.
Start with one real photo of a yard Painted Acre paints it into a watercolor canvas Design right on it: a natural swimming pond, built in Expand it: a planted filter zone joins the water Plant it and watch year five arrive Twenty years later, honestly grown
1Start with one real photo of a yard
Real product output, start to finish. No mockups.

Put it where the water already goes

Walk outside during the next hard rain and watch: the water tells you where the rain garden belongs. Downhill from a downspout, at least 10 feet from the foundation, never over the septic field, and not in the spot that already stands wet for days, that is a drainage problem, not a rain garden site. Size runs about a fifth to a third of the roof area draining to it. Drawing the basin on a painting of your actual yard settles the location question in a way a brochure diagram cannot.

Put it where the water already goes: watercolor study
Watercolor study: put it where the water already goes.

Three zones, one basin

A rain garden plants in rings. The center holds the most water the longest, so it takes the true wet-feet plants: blue flag iris, soft rush. The sloping sides flood briefly and drain fast, perfect for joe pye weed and swamp-edge shrubs. The rim almost never floods and wants ordinary tough perennials that tie the basin into the rest of the yard. Get the rings right and the garden thrives on total neglect; ignore them and the center drowns while the rim wilts.

And on ground with any fall, the showpiece version is a chain: two or three cells stepping downhill, each held by a low grassy berm, linked by short stone runs, exactly what the paintings on this page show. Each cell stays an honest size while the chain swallows twice the storm.

Three zones, one basin: watercolor study
Watercolor study: three zones, one basin.

It drains in a day, and that is the point

A properly built rain garden empties within 24 to 48 hours, faster than mosquitoes can breed, which answers the first question every neighbor asks. The engine is the plants: native roots reach 6 to 10 feet down and keep drilling the soil open year after year, so the basin drains better at year five than the day you dug it. Give the overflow somewhere to go, a notch at the low edge aimed at the lawn, and the design handles the storm that exceeds it.

Before and after, honestly

Every Painted Acre plan starts from a photo of a real yard and ends with the same view, years grown. No invented dream yard, no stock photos.

Before: the yard today, painted in watercolor After: the same yard with the rain garden design tool grown in
This scenario, before and grown in.

Your yard is a plan, not a weekend

Real projects happen across years: maybe you raise privacy mounds and plant the slow shade trees first, and the water waits for year three. In Painted Acre, every plant and structure carries its own year, the studio builds the scene in phases, and the timelapse shows the whole multi-year plan paying off before you commit to any of it. Here is this sample plan, phase by phase, every frame real product output:

The plan at year 1: Dig once, build the chain
Year 1

Dig once, build the chain

Two dished cells step down toward the creek, bermed on the low side, boulders set into the rims, the dry creek feeding the upper cell through a stone apron. Iris and rushes go straight into the wet centers, the little birch at the overflow.

The plan at year 2: Finish the rings
Year 2

Finish the rings

No digging this year. Joe pye weed and the buttonbush take the back slopes, the susan drifts close along the rims, and the planting is complete.

The plan at year 3: Roots go to work
Year 3

Roots go to work

Native roots reach feet down and keep drilling the soil open. The cells now drain faster than the day they were dug.

The plan at year 5: The rings knit
Year 5

The rings knit

Mauve domes over the back slopes, gold along the rims, and the chain reads as a garden that happens to swallow storms.

The plan at year 20: The overflow tree owns the corner
Year 20

The overflow tree owns the corner

The river birch planted below the lower cell is now the biggest thing between the garden and the creek, drinking everything the chain sheds.

Change any year in the studio and the whole timeline repaints. Budgets like phases too: the printable report groups the shopping list by year.

The rings, painted

Wet center, brief-flood slopes, dry rim: every plant here is picked for one of the three rings and painted at every age. Enter your ZIP and the palette keeps only natives that survive your winters.

Blue Flag Iris, watercolor

Blue Flag Iris

Iris versicolor

The wet center showpiece: violet flags in June, roots that drink like a pump.

Zones 3–93 ft
Soft Rush, watercolor

Soft Rush

Juncus effusus

Vertical structure in the deepest zone, green through winter.

Zones 4–93.5 ft
Joe Pye Weed, watercolor

Joe Pye Weed

Eutrochium purpureum

The side-slope tower: mauve umbrellas that butterflies mob in late summer.

Zones 4–96 ft
Buttonbush, watercolor

Buttonbush

Cephalanthus occidentalis

A shrub for the wet end of bigger basins; pollinators treat the globes like a truck stop.

Zones 5–108 ft
Black-Eyed Susan, watercolor

Black-Eyed Susan

Rudbeckia fulgida

The dry rim workhorse that ties the basin into the yard.

Zones 3–92.5 ft
River Birch, watercolor

River Birch

Betula nigra

Plant it just downslope of the overflow and it drinks what the basin sheds.

Zones 4–940 ft
What to expect, honestly: Year 1: a mulched bowl with small plugs, and it already works hydraulically from the first storm. Year 2: the rings knit and bloom. Year 4: roots have opened the soil, it drains faster than when new, and it reads as a garden that happens to be a basin, not a drainage project.

Questions people ask

What is a rain garden and how does it work?

It is a shallow, bowl-shaped garden bed, usually 6 to 12 inches deep, placed downhill of a downspout or driveway. Runoff collects in it, the amended soil and deep plant roots soak it in within a day or two, and pollutants filter out instead of washing to the storm drain.

How big should a rain garden be?

A common rule is 20 to 30 percent of the roof or pavement area draining into it. A single downspout serving 300 square feet of roof wants a basin of roughly 60 to 100 square feet. Drawing it to scale on your own yard photo shows what that actually looks like next to the deck.

Do rain gardens attract mosquitoes?

No. Mosquitoes need standing water for 7 to 10 days to breed, and a working rain garden drains in one or two. If water stands longer than that, the site needs a soil fix, not a different garden.

How far from the house should a rain garden be?

At least 10 feet, on ground that slopes away from the foundation, and never over a septic field. Placing the basin on a painted plan of your lot makes the setback and the downspout route obvious before you dig.

Design this on a sample yard — free

What this is, and is not: Painted Acre produces an illustrative watercolor design plan: placement, plant choices, and an honest picture of growth over time. It is not an architectural, engineering, or construction document. For anything that involves excavation, water, structures, or grading, bring the plan to a qualified contractor or landscape professional and verify measurements, utilities, and local codes first.