A rain garden is a shallow planted basin that catches the water pouring off your roof and driveway and soaks it into the ground within a day, instead of letting it run to the storm drain or your basement. It is not a pond: it is dry most of the time, planted with deep-rooted natives that drink hard when it fills. Painted Acre paints your yard photo into a watercolor, lets you draw the basin where the water already goes, and shows the planting grown in over twenty years.
No account needed. The studio opens with this scenario ready to go.
Walk outside during the next hard rain and watch: the water tells you where the rain garden belongs. Downhill from a downspout, at least 10 feet from the foundation, never over the septic field, and not in the spot that already stands wet for days, that is a drainage problem, not a rain garden site. Size runs about a fifth to a third of the roof area draining to it. Drawing the basin on a painting of your actual yard settles the location question in a way a brochure diagram cannot.
A rain garden plants in rings. The center holds the most water the longest, so it takes the true wet-feet plants: blue flag iris, soft rush. The sloping sides flood briefly and drain fast, perfect for joe pye weed and swamp-edge shrubs. The rim almost never floods and wants ordinary tough perennials that tie the basin into the rest of the yard. Get the rings right and the garden thrives on total neglect; ignore them and the center drowns while the rim wilts.
And on ground with any fall, the showpiece version is a chain: two or three cells stepping downhill, each held by a low grassy berm, linked by short stone runs, exactly what the paintings on this page show. Each cell stays an honest size while the chain swallows twice the storm.
A properly built rain garden empties within 24 to 48 hours, faster than mosquitoes can breed, which answers the first question every neighbor asks. The engine is the plants: native roots reach 6 to 10 feet down and keep drilling the soil open year after year, so the basin drains better at year five than the day you dug it. Give the overflow somewhere to go, a notch at the low edge aimed at the lawn, and the design handles the storm that exceeds it.
Every Painted Acre plan starts from a photo of a real yard and ends with the same view, years grown. No invented dream yard, no stock photos.
Real projects happen across years: maybe you raise privacy mounds and plant the slow shade trees first, and the water waits for year three. In Painted Acre, every plant and structure carries its own year, the studio builds the scene in phases, and the timelapse shows the whole multi-year plan paying off before you commit to any of it. Here is this sample plan, phase by phase, every frame real product output:
Two dished cells step down toward the creek, bermed on the low side, boulders set into the rims, the dry creek feeding the upper cell through a stone apron. Iris and rushes go straight into the wet centers, the little birch at the overflow.
No digging this year. Joe pye weed and the buttonbush take the back slopes, the susan drifts close along the rims, and the planting is complete.
Native roots reach feet down and keep drilling the soil open. The cells now drain faster than the day they were dug.
Mauve domes over the back slopes, gold along the rims, and the chain reads as a garden that happens to swallow storms.
The river birch planted below the lower cell is now the biggest thing between the garden and the creek, drinking everything the chain sheds.
Change any year in the studio and the whole timeline repaints. Budgets like phases too: the printable report groups the shopping list by year.
Wet center, brief-flood slopes, dry rim: every plant here is picked for one of the three rings and painted at every age. Enter your ZIP and the palette keeps only natives that survive your winters.
The wet center showpiece: violet flags in June, roots that drink like a pump.
Vertical structure in the deepest zone, green through winter.
The side-slope tower: mauve umbrellas that butterflies mob in late summer.
A shrub for the wet end of bigger basins; pollinators treat the globes like a truck stop.
The dry rim workhorse that ties the basin into the yard.
Plant it just downslope of the overflow and it drinks what the basin sheds.
It is a shallow, bowl-shaped garden bed, usually 6 to 12 inches deep, placed downhill of a downspout or driveway. Runoff collects in it, the amended soil and deep plant roots soak it in within a day or two, and pollutants filter out instead of washing to the storm drain.
A common rule is 20 to 30 percent of the roof or pavement area draining into it. A single downspout serving 300 square feet of roof wants a basin of roughly 60 to 100 square feet. Drawing it to scale on your own yard photo shows what that actually looks like next to the deck.
No. Mosquitoes need standing water for 7 to 10 days to breed, and a working rain garden drains in one or two. If water stands longer than that, the site needs a soil fix, not a different garden.
At least 10 feet, on ground that slopes away from the foundation, and never over a septic field. Placing the basin on a painted plan of your lot makes the setback and the downspout route obvious before you dig.
What this is, and is not: Painted Acre produces an illustrative watercolor design plan: placement, plant choices, and an honest picture of growth over time. It is not an architectural, engineering, or construction document. For anything that involves excavation, water, structures, or grading, bring the plan to a qualified contractor or landscape professional and verify measurements, utilities, and local codes first.
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